My 94amps alternator was too old, and it was no longer capable of pushing
enough amps through my system, so I decided to swapp a new 105amps alternator
(the one used in second generation engines...)
Now my system is at 14 volts all the time even at idle speed and with lights,
radiator fan and accesories turned on... :)
cool isn't it ?
In the past my system used to drop to 12 volts causing my battery not to be
completely charged.
Voltage with the old alternator.
Engine at idle, lights and radiator's fan turned on |
Voltage with the new alternator.
Engine at idle, lights and radiator's fan turned on |
Here are some pictures of the swapping operation.
New 105 amps alternator |
Old 94 amps alternator |
Just missing.... the connections!!! |
New 4 wires connector |
Connector already attached to the alternator |
Everything ready!
Make it fly! |
The only problem I had was to find out the configuration of the new voltage
regulator connector... and here is what I found:
Initial |
Color |
Function |
Connected to: |
S |
Red |
sensing of the real voltage of the battery |
directly to battery |
F |
brown |
Magnetic field |
Ignition key |
L |
brown |
Charging light |
Igntion key |
P |
grey |
Tachometer |
-- |
The fact is that you only need to conect the L wire to make it operate.
Then, you can use the F wire as a backup, just in case the L wire fails.
The S wire goes connected directly to the battery to sense the real voltage
of the system. And the P wire is used in new cars without distributor for
the tachometer.
In my case, I used only the S and L wire and it works excellent !!!!
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